Looking to do a Nerf gun mod... wanted to get some feedback on how to paint/weather it..
found a few projects on-line that I thought we pretty decent.. trying to decide on my own direction here.
1.) black & silver based (techy) theme
2.) heavy metal/blade runner feel (really digging this one and the wooden/brown handle on it)
3.) Army green & black style:
4.) silver & black (mas effect I think? not a gamer).. really like this style too.. even the logo (of some kind) looks right
5.) mixture, black, silver & brown grip..
Secondly.. a few other questions..
1.) how important (cool points?) is that the nerf gun still works as a nerf gun? Ive been thinking of removing the working 'dart' aspect of it.. in favor of some electronics goodness instead?? thoughts?
2.) anyone else have a blaster project in the works??
-----------------------------[update after some work]--------------------------------
after some work.. I made some progress on this project.
I got the electronics all figured out.. (including making/baking/assembling the board, writing/finalizing the code, home brew/etching two additional custom pcb's...yadda yadda)
It is powered by S.C.A.B...
[kinda my generic/general platform for props..so far I love it]
I think I had posted pics of making my board somewhere before.. (in another thread currently running about)..
here it was it looks like:
here it is on the left next to an Arduino board (with a WaveShield stacked on top of it for comparison)
(fonts changeable on SD card, reads/loads a few defaults off a text file on SD card as well to set a few parameters on the blaster)
*safety = if on.. you need to have the trigger pressed when you boot up
*maxammo = total ammo count before having to reload
*acolor = led color when in auto-fire mode (can be r, b, or g)
*acolor = led color when in semi/manual fire mode (can be r, b, or g)
here is the first video of stage/phase one of the electronics and code development stage of it:
Prepping the nerf gun: (in no particular order)
*I needed a motor.. but didnt really know how I was gonna make it all work.. about torque on motors...sizes..etc..
got lucky and scored a motor that looked like it would fit from my local science surplus store.. biggest I could find that was small enough to still fit..lol (it seemed like it was MADE for the gun once I got it home)
*I knew I need to somehow get some leds into the barrel.. and wanted to have it be RGB..
*Wanted it to reload by pulling the slide on top back
*Since its a blaster the SD card and batteries needed to be accessible without having to open the the gun up (ie: accessible sd card and re-charge port)
*Needed to account for a switch/button to switch from semi/manual firing mode to auto-firing mode
here was my first mock up for testing space and how I was gonna attempt things: (pre dynamic default loading)
(s.c.a.b. in grip/butt)
after taking apart the Maverick gun (many tutorials all over on it if needed).. I saw how the barrel was turned internally by trigger pull.. and figured Id hack/modify it to suit my needs.
I cut/sanded the hexed shaped top off the post/part that connected to the barrel and turned a little inner sleeve and press fit hole so it would attach to the cut down motor shaft.
** what you dont see pictured is any pics of the custom PCB I etched for the components to drive the motor (SCAB/Arduino do not have enough power itself to drive high power devices.. so you need a driver/transistor...etc.. something to help out)
but here are the shcematic and pcb files I made in eagle for it:
[img width=568 height=768]http://dmstudios.net/misc/motor_pcb/motor_pcb_2.jpg" />
RGB barrel LED:
I was going to use a DX RGB led star I had laying around.. but then decided it was over kill for a blaster (not like I need to light up a poly tube/blade or anything)..
so I opted for a 505 RGB led,.
*created a custom home etched pcb for it
*turned down a two piece optics holder and pcb 'presser up againster' unit to hold everything.. (similar to Ace's small OD optics/holders... but mine are much more shitty and crude..and no threading....well you get the point).. haha..
I wont go into detail on how I etched.. I have posted a few tutorials stp-by-step on how to make these at home in 10 minutes enough..
after etching.. smear some solder paste.. and populate board with resistors & 505 RGB:
bake it in toaster oven:
make inner sleeve/bottom portion to hold/push the pcb with (incuding some milled out section for wire passing)
make outter sleeve to hold optics in it.. and also has the bottom portion slide in and sandwhich the pcb up against the optics......and fits in the Maverick gun plastic barrel part:
Unit all put together:
Inside the Maverick barrel:
Exploded view of all parts/optics/pcb..etc:
Mode select switch.. had to think about where I was gonna put this.. without some huge, ugly slider switch somewhere.. that looked like an after-thought...
I eventually decided to re-purpose the same button/area that used to allow the barrel to swing out and reload the darts..
*(this switch has an led in it.. I am nto currently using it.. but could be used to have the switch backlit.. I have a 3.3v pad on the board)
using a simple lever switch.. for both both main trigger and reload..
this one is secured to some perfboard cut to snug fit for inside the gun area.. it positions it in the correct place so the top slide hits it when pulled back, w/o mod to the top slide area/parts
you can see where I placed it int he above overview shot of the gun layout..
I mod'd/filed down the trigger a bit to hold the lever from the switch it in easier...(works great!)
after getting all this work and aligning things up.. I did a quick mock-up and cram-fu test with it mostly assembled.. (some parts have to wait for final paint and/or assembly)..
I took this video of its current state.. which Im calling 'done'.. and ready for break down and final paint & weathering (attempts) lol
thanks for the poll/feedback..
Im still not sure about trying a chrome/silver/nickle base and some dark washes.. or going with a black base..and trying to silver/grey dry brushing..etc.
(better decide soon eh?) lol
I never posted these... and just recently remembered about them when reading Ace's Obi TPM run thread.
I posted on them..(did a quick sketch while at work to help explain it).. to maybe offer help.. (but no one even acknowledged I posted... boo hoo.. poor me.. right?!) lmao!
Erv drove into me 'document everything'.. (so here I am.. maybe it'll help fix a cram-fu problem!)
I worked on a few different ideas of 'mechanical' switches or methods to trigger latching/momentary switches when I got those illuminated switches a while back..and then again when I started working on 'cores' and all components secure to it (ie: Easterns x-mas gift/x-core..integrated switch)
(Im sure you've seen a few here and there..but I dont think these plunger style ones ever)..
I suppose it depends on your specific application/project but (again) the idea is sound/stable..
yanking the pic I made in Ace's Obi run thread..
for myself,.. these were to serve several purposes.. solvable by either changing the length of the outer threaded sleeve, the length of the 'plunger'...or both. =)
a shorter length threaded outer sleeve lets you thread directly into the hilt...(for switches that are very close to the top of the hilt)
a longer length threaded outer sleeve lets me thread into the hilt..but ALSO my core (or delrin disk..etc)
when I do this..I need a longer plunger end as the switch is usually set deeper and not at the top by hilt/hole.
these are all garage/hacked, home machined..etc Im sure if Ace tackled this, they would turn out much nicer,,and the fit and finish of course would be top notch. (even maybe a lip or something to stop screwing all the way in)
only con I have found so far is its a bit difficult to screw in the threaded sleeve sometimes.. (you need to tape up some needle nose pliers and get to turnin'!) lol
(this is actually how I am planning on finishing my own personal Obi hilt using the bike vale and red button as my switches) (one of these days, right?)
ok just so there is some Proof in the puddin',..another proof of concept..(PoC)
(on top of some TCSS boxes..with some brass and aluminum strips I cut out..same thickness..they turned out good..need to sand edges..and buff)
this is NOT fully screwed in.. but it is also a longer sleeve version.. cut the sleeve in half..
and you can even counter sink/bore the switch end to get it lower/closer to the hilt if you wanted.
see how it works/side view:
shorter plunger see how it goes into hilt to trigger your switch.. of course these are changeable to any length to fit the depth needed.
I have two more that are going to go on top of one of these control box.so the switches are on top of the 'cover' and spring like this.
anyways..hope 'someone' enjoys them.. LOL
was going to post this in the 'idea thread'.. but figured just make its own thread for it..
another step in my OBI TPM saga.. lol
trying to keep the size as accurate as 'I' can, and still having it be somewhat MHS based at the core...
I was stuck on finding out a way to use the stock switches as real, functioning switches for my hilt.
(Ive always been keen on the all-in-one core ideas... but have the switches on/in the core and some sort of cap/plunger on the outside has always been a PITA for me... here and there a few ideas have came out/been used)
for the OBI.. when everything was done,.. the switch holes would go (more or less) at the same exact level of the MHS heatsink.. so I need to adjust that a bit.. and also find a way to mount some switches in that area..
I had mulled over Madcows switch approach. but just wasnt a good fit..
so I came up with a custom, round PCB, that mounts to the underside of the heatsink..and is secured using the same nylon screws that hold our luxeon star pcbs. (MHS hack!)
here is my prototype..
the bike valve switch will have an SMD led in it.. (like they normally do).. to light up the purple gem in the valve end. I just didnt put it back in yet..from doing the momentary mod to the switch (latching by default)
I also didnt clip the extra leads from the switches yet.. but I believe the idea is sound.. and can open up the doors for others to use the same idea/approach.. (nned to mount a unique switch?.. make a pcb for it!)
I posted a tut on how to etch your own pcbs..etc.. using your home laser printer and photopaper..
1.) make pcb deisgn in photoshop..
2.) print to photo paper
3.) iron to your copper clad board.
you get this:
etch and you are left with your laser printer traces (covering the copper underneath)
remove toner: (pcb is left)
Like Erv taught us.. pre-tin folks!
bend my switch leads underneath..and the other row down:
I dont have a red thumbscrew with the correct threads yet.. but you can see it mocked up there.. (screws right in from outside of hilt)
when heatsink is in MHS part.. it lines up with the holes perfectly.. (cant see it so good in pic_ =(
feedback always welcome..
hope this helps others get past road blocks in their projects!
Introducing the Jeruino! (not really.. but everyone else names their Arduino knock-off clone circuit.. figured I might as well be trendy too!) LOL =)
Everyone knows how much of a whore I am for the RFX platform...
I have also been playing with the Arduino for a while too... (any member here or JSSDC can easily jump in..with both feet and be up speed (at least my speed) in a day or so...so I dont wanna hear any pissin' & moanin' about things being too hard.. lazy I'll accept)
a HUGE problem for everyone who posts this junk is 'footprint' going from the non-practical BREADBOARD set-up that is great for YouTube vids.. but not so great for any practical project.. nor is stuffing a 'real/true' Arduino board into a project (they are more development/prototyping and have alot of bells and whistles you dont need in the end) very practical and wastes money.
you can get all the components for a barebones Arduino for around $7 bucks or so.... which is much better than $30+ each time to shove in a stunt or costume or other prop..
I saw Alec post his jedi training remote.. and pm'd him saying that is great project for an RFX or Arduino 'brain'.... since it doesnt need a CF or PC..etc.. this little brains fill a nice niche.
So I opened up photoshop and got to work on making [u]my[/u] first 'real' pcb schematic (IMHO).. since this was a real working board..and not just some traces to hold sensors or switches as I have etched out before..
(I etched another 'real' board...but it was based on TroyO's schematics for a multi-channel LED driver board.. which I've posted before...PWM chopper type)
this one I created myself from scratch.. and google/instructables... (basically ported my breadboard Arduino circuit to a PCB) with the intent being fore Alec's jedi training remote.. (anyways.. not sure if that currently being worked anymore) =(
but I produced my first functioning Jeruino board.. (Arduino clone)
Its no PlecterLabs, professionally design PCB.. etched by a PCB house...etc.. this is DIY at home... (so if your looking for that.. Alt+F4 is for you! =) )
anyways.. on with the story/post.. =)
SO I made a design in Photoshop to illustrate my traces and vias/pads..etc
you print this out on GLOSSY PHOTOPAPER.. done with a LASER PRINTER (not ink jet)
**this happens to be DUAL sided (avoid at all costs if you can..true PITA for DIY)
you cut out your traces/design... lay it over your copper clad board (RadioShack..or anywhere)
and you IRON it.. heating up the toner so it adheres and transfers to the copper board.
let sit for a few minutes.. run it under water.. and rub/peel the paper away under only traces are left on your copper board: (looks like you printed on the board... sometimes traces by the edges do NOT transfer good.. so be careful.)
cut out other side.. and get ready to repeat process:
once you have your traces transferred to the board.. it is time you etch away the visible copper.
All copper is gone.. leaving only the traces you transferred to the board left.
the flip side: (**warning..UGLY.. you can see the lift of the paper and traces that are crummy on this side) (you can see the holes mis-aligned a bit.. but no worries..all good)
this side came out pretty damn good though:
from here.. I removed the toner on the board with some ACETONE..
Next we drill the holes (damn there was a lot)
Doesnt look too bad (from the top)..LOL
clearer view of the bottom side with some mis-aligned holes:
what stinks about the DIY approach with dual sided.. is THERE ARE NO THROUGH HOLES PLATED.. so its a real BITCH to solder through the holes to bridge continuity..
Anyways.. once you are at this point..
you can start to solder on your components:
and finished product..
threw in a Atmel chip from my Arduino.. (already had a sketch/program on it..so I knew it was working)..
powered it up.. BAM.. it worked! (STOKED!)..
however.. before I posted.. I needed to check the FTDI headers.. (these 4 pin headers are how you talk and upload new sketches/programs to the chip to be 'run')...
it runs...works.. but only a pre-programmed sketch that was/is on the chip.. (BOOOO!)..
who wants to buy a REAL Arduino (besides people like me).. just to swap out the chip for your final project every time your done? (I guess many people do it this way though..as FTDI takes up a little space?)
be nice to just write directly to your final Jeruino..
so after some BS and a few swear words.. I fixed everything..(ala Ultra Sound approach) LMAO...
found a few continuity problems from top-side of board to bottom side of board..
and an FTDI problem...
the Ultra Sound fix was a missing trace to a certain pin (pin7...VCC..yikes)..
so I had to use a fix wire..like the old US boards.. hahaha.. (throw-back)
(it looks worse in the pic)
and of course.. because no good deed go un-punished and hard work is always laughed at in life..
I got punished by NOT doing my due diligence.. doing all this hard work for NOTHING!..
as I found a KIT.. that does exactly what I just created from scratch, myself.. that is MUCH more easier, and much more professional (however you dont get the satisfaction of failing over and over, swearing alot....and its missing any kind of Voltage regulator.. but making a quick PCB for that would be no problem!!!! haha)..
so I got a kit to compare mine..to 'his'... (fucker.. I really like his kits!!)
so without further ado..
some compare pics:
my DIY vs purchased (mine has a vRegulator though..so its a bit longer)
I make no implications that I know what Im doing..
that this is the BEST approach
that this is absolutely how things much be done.
I am simply sharing what "I've" done...
but for extra $10.. it can really kick up a stunt or costume..
you have a BRAIN with MANY I/O ports to hook stuff up to..
LED's... servos/motors.. accelerometers... and the list goes on and on..
all the same brain.. just change the code. =)
hope this helps someone finish that special prop/project.
feedback or questions are appreciated.
Over the 'years'.. (since I was first turned on to the RFX project/platform).. I fell in love with the idea of a generic platform for the user use as they saw fit.
motors, leds, rfid...whatever the project was.. a nice, simple, generic platform for users to 'tweak' and customize seems like a great idea to me.
with RFX basically defunct/dead... I turned toward the Arduino platform. Had a huge following, lots of examples.. and quite easy to get up to speed on basics..etc.. (even without an electronics background)
The problem with the Arduino platform (as is).. is that its purpose (to me) is for developing/prototyping your projects.. but not to be used in the end application.
why? due to size.. and price mainly for me.. (although other Arduino variants can come in smaller sizes.. the price is includes extra development stuff you may not use in your final projects...etc... and not to mention a minimal Arduino circuit can be made for under $7.00 bucks!)
And getting an Arduino to play audio isnt done easily (by default)..
****(although now I just tested a super easy PWM based audio output library.. doesnt use any DAC or AMP.. and the quality is pretty decent for what it is!)
SO I began to teach myself Eagle.. (not easy for me unfortunately..but after some time I got more comfortable with it)..
and laid out some stuff.. and finally felt confident enough to start making my own PCB's and having the shipped to me.. (instead of the old DIY home brew etch approach)
So here I am documenting my process.. (and failures) along the way..
a qcuik summary of the things I had to learn.do/involved..
*need to make a the schematic/circuit layout in Eagle
*hope its correct or have others look it over (check against design rules too)
*order the pcb's (sending the exported GERBER files form Eagle to your pcb fab house of choice)
*order a stencil (which is used to layover the pcb and smear solder paste over it to get it applied to the exposed pads through stencil)
*place parts on pcb (tweezers!!!!)
*re-flow pcb in oven
This was my first iteration.. using a different DAC than the schematic I was using as my guide:
Here was my FIRST generation of pcb's I got made:
Here is the pcb compared to other stuff.. an Arduino, a smaller minimal Arduino kit..and I think an US 2.5 board:
here I applied my solder paste.. and populated the board with its components..etc. and re-flowed in my wal-mart toaster oven!!
I had even tried to fix it by testing jumper wires to the default I/O pins..etc.. (no go)..
Well long story short.. after posting and asking....I just couldnt get it working with the DAC I had chosen..maybe someone else could have?? no clue.. (DOH.. should have just followed along..lesson learned)..which I guess is good.. as I had a few other mistakes as well.. =( SO I started over.
In the end, all I had was a tiny Arduino circuit..with on-board uSD socket.. nice.. but no audio output.
So lets go version 2!!
I got mew pcb's made... got a new stencil made..etc.. and started again.
Here is the process "I" did:
apply the solder paste, using stencil:
remove stencil.. examine paste placement on pads: doesnt need to be PERFECT as the heat from pads will pull solder towards it..etc:
Then populate board: (those TQFP chips are a PITA sometimes!!)
Stick it in the toaster for a bit.. (you can see the solder melt and get shiny)
and when you are done you get a finished board..
Here are some size shots and comparison shots against a full size Arduino & WaveShield (which is what my custom board is together..those two boards in one)
in the last pic you can see some pots wired inplace of some resistors.. I did this so I could dial in not only the volume.. but play with the filter/range, so things didnt sound so muddy/muted..
when done flash the board with whatever code you wrote to control/do whatever it is you need done.
thanks for looking.. was a fun project..
From the JSSDC run Austin put together.. the bar graph pcbs..
blue is bottom layer.. red is top layer...
Here is link to the Eagle files too:
you can take those.. and export GERBER files for the fab house..
I already checked the design against the iTeadStudios design rules..and everything passed.. (so should be good to go)..
that being said.. it doesnt save us from ourselves! look at..study it.. make sure its 100% right..
walk yourself through the assembly and the application of using it in a build..etc.. see if you come up with any troublesome area...etc
I think one that fits/works in the MHS activation boxes would be nice.. same hole alignment..etc..etc.. some standoffs.. done.
if you choose to use the resistor pads on the CF.. bridge the pads on the bottom of course
suggestion.. if you plan on either offer built ones.. or making several of these for yourself..
invest in a stencil!.. (at least for the top [led] side)... its easier than you think to do... (costs a bit of extra money though)..
but saves time and produces a better 'finish' for your components/solder than doing it all by hand..
I have used both pololu.com and ohararp.com (I think thats the right name?)..
I preferred the later.. as it comes on a piece of KAPTON vs MYLAR.. and produced a better stencil (and Ryan was great to talk too.. very helpful for us noobs)
thats the nice thing about getting pro boards made.. you can use both sides to run traces way easier than a DIY board..LOL
my attempt at assembly:
here are some pics of the board I just did this morning..
1.) print out the pads/footprint from Eagle to a piece of paper..use exacto knife to cut out pads (ie: make your solder paste mask w/paper)
2.) align your pcb with enough, equal height stuff around it so the mask doesnt 'bow'..and you have a bigger surface to 'smear' against.
(I just use extra/leftover pcbs and stack along the sides)
3.) take your paper mask, and lay/secure it over your target pcb
4.) smear some solder paste at the top of the 'mask'... and grab a credit card or something like a putty knife.. and smear the solder paste over the mask
5.) for this type of PCB/project it doesnt have to be 'perfectly' aligned on the pads... (for fine pitch components.. I would wipe it off and start over)
you can see the alignment isnt perfect.... but it doesnt matter here.. also the heat will pull the solder toward the pads and even it out..etc
6.) after you apply your solder paste, you can populate the pcb with your leds (align/straighten as you see fit)
7.) throw it in your toaster oven...(tick tock)
8.) all done:
I didnt do the resistors.. if I was going to.. I would have started with that side first.. then done the leds last.. (or just did the resistors by hand.. as you dont see that side)
all-in-all.. it took about 11 minutes to complete..
while I was working on my own custom Arduino based project.. I found myself without a real way to compare the audio output (volume/quality) against the Adafruit WaveShield which I based my project off of)
So I was about to order one.. when I found a guy at my local makerspace that actually had one of these kits. The catch was he had never put it together.
So the barter was on.. I can borrow and test it.. as long as I put it together for him.. (pfft.. no problem!)
Here is my documentation of building an Adafruit WaveShield..
the kit parts:
compare shots against my custom board, for size:
thanks for looking!
summary: nice and easy kit
does what it says in minimal time and effort
volume quality is 'not' that great.. (but they know about it.. and they provide a resistor hack for adjusting the volume)
the filter/range is a bit muffled too..
over-all its better than straight, un-filterd, un-amplified PWM audio! and its only around $20.00
special thanks to Pete P. @ the local Milwaukee Maker Space! (you guys rock!)
been playing around with a few ideas over the years.. and have worked on a few control box ideas/projects as well...
this one is based off an MHS control box.. with some 'modifications'
things to note:
*has two switches (main and aux) in it.. (one the 'side' of the box.. with custom switches and switch caps/stems
*custom PCB was created for them to mounted, to and mounted to the inside of the box.
*has a 1.3mm recharge port in it
* has custom smd led bar graph (custom made pcb for this as well)
pretty has everything a hilt needs, all located in the......... 'control box'
posting my mock up pics... if things work out good.. (which it look sot be great even).. I'll break it down again.. re-fine...and buff/polish and powder coat for the finished product.
hopefully this gives some ideas for everyone else... make things work for you!.. make what you need...
1.) take your favorite drawing app and make a PCB design.. no special tools.. draw BLACK lines/traces and pads where you want 'copper' to be..
get your copper clad board/section..
2.) print out image on glossy photo paper.... iron/transfer image/toner to the copper board.. rinse under water to remove paper.. soak in etchant to remove exposed copper:
3.) after exposed copper is gone.... use a q-tip and some mail polish remover to remove the toner from the pcb... (revealing the copper/pcb under neath)
***(all this above has been posted many times before.. and shame on you for not trying it!... this could have saved your ass in that 'one' project!) =)
4.) mounted my modified switches to their PCB.. (these have the threaded tops on them for external switch caps to be used form outside the hilt.. keeping the main core/chassis/box internals standalone)
several solder pads depending on the need/space available
5.) mounted (mocked up) in the control box:
6.) (although it looks 'off' its really just the pic.. things line up great!)
side view of holes and where the switch tops are
7.) top (custom) pcb made..for the led bar graph.. (this posed a problem due to space.. and the fact that I wanted each led to be addressable for either all direct drive..'or' for CF led.txt sequence..etc.. not to mention trying to do double sided board without through hole plating.. (making my own)..
again.. space was concern.. (both sides)
I think an led (possible two) got ruined by heat? or something.. but Im going to replace them real quick. (as they only light up partially)
in the end it will be black box.. aluminum top plate and aluminum switches on the side of the box.
the top 'smd led bra graph' pcb/portion
this is where each resistors goes: (bottom of board)
quick mock up:
(again the switch pcb is in place already.. the custom pcb's are almost forming a box to support each other
got a couple hours the other night to finish 95% of it up... (I think 'real' professional PCB's would serve best here)
got the bottom half of the bar graph competed (resistors soldered, wires soldered..etc)
used 1206 resistors.. all I had at the time.. (yesterday my 0603's came.. had I had those in my plannign stage..I think everything might have been topside mounted....oh well v2 I guess..lol..this is my PoC)
still not quite sure how/where to tap the V++ to.. I have a few ideas...not a big deal though any place will work)
quick test of being lit up.. (had to replace 2 leds as I think they were 'damaged' by initial placement? maybe soldering too hot? different bin? one was of color.. when lit up bright..then gradually died out after a few seconds)..anyways replaced them
2 x green
2 x yellow
3 x red
each resistored, each individually addressable... (so can be direct driven, used with CF, or as PLI) =)
quick mock up of the side/switch PCB inside the box. and the switches/caps/stems I made for them.. (still need to be shortened a bit..but they are close enough to work and show the effect/style)
more pics of the 'switch caps/stems'
the pcb's took about 30 minutes total to make.. (probably another 15 prior on trial and error on printing out paper copies and doing size checks)
now that I feel the idea is 'sound' I'll go back and plan it out a bit better.. (this is supposed to still have recharge port added..but Im not sure after implementing things this far it will make the cut)
time to break it down.. pc the control box BLACK..
buff/polish the 'switches'...
and complete the 'top'.. which is an already sized aluminum strip that sits flush like any normal 'card stock'
there is NOW window cut/milled out of it yet through for the bar graph.. =(
So I have been working on & off on an expanding saber..similar to the those hilts that have the exposable crystal chambers/core...etc
except this idea is NOT to reveal anything.. it is a step to make a more 'functional' (moving) type saber.. allowing for maybe smaller footprint (and concealment) into an expandable, longer hilt when needed/being used.
this is NOT finished.. and for those of you who have a problem with projects being posted while NOT completed.. simply fuck off.
Its in the R&D forum.. and I see people who do placeholder posts all the time.. so if you havent done anything like the above...then speak out.
anyways.. while developing/working on this.. I discovered several paths this could take.. and I also would like to get soem feedback on areas I am un-clear on how to proceed.
This is a long post.. outlining several of the ideas or variations that could be done.. and Im a long winded guy.. again.. if this a problem for you..
ALT + [F4] is a good choice for you right now.
Project goals/tasks or ideas that needed to be accepted or thrown out. (no order)..and to keep ideas out, posted for me to reflect on.
1.) smallest footprint when 'closed'..... (good idea.. nice small footprint).. but when open..what are you 'left' with as a saber?
grips both top and bottom? the extension piece?
2.) when open? form vs function... the function is there.. no doubt.. but when trying to keep/adhere to certain restrictions (like #1 above)..as well as make it visually pleasing.. it somewhat limits normal thinking/ideas.
3.) when closed..how to lock?
* I have a few locking ideas..each fairly unique..
* a outward 'clasp' (so to speak) that locks the top portion down/closed
* a 'threaded' end that is similar to sloth's reveal hilt.. the top section slides down..and can be turned/screwed into the bottom section.. (unscrew it expands..etc)
* a ballbearing/spring type lock.. Madcow used one on his hilts...as well as in use all over the world
4.) when open..how to keep from spinning/rotating.
* as of now..this doesnt need to be implemented.. BUT.. I have thought it out.. (will post pics/drawings really).. and is similiar to the sliding 'rail' chassis system I had been messing with a while back..and should work easy enough..
* how much movement is enough? or not enough?
there is a 3 way approach to the movement..
you slide the TOP section
you slide both 'core' * top sections
you secure top half..and make the 'code' slide (making the top section move as well of course)
so there is room for several variants..with different movement here as well..
to explain the parts/mechanics:
2 x double male threaded connector (old style ones need to be modified... new version will need a custom part sleeve/shim (Super Mario Bros. Tunnel) for them to be compatible... I have used one of each for this demo/display)
a custom OD section of tubing (your sliding 'core').. with a LIP on the end..the same OD as a heatsink
1 x 1.25 OD spring (length to fit your project travel)
the rest of the MHS parts you use is up to you..and how much TRAVEL you want..or how you 'pull it all together'.. this is just the mechanics of getting an expandable hilt going..
this is (was) a WIP.. and if you dont like.. fuck off.
if you dont like un-completed projects...dont have anything constructive to say.. move along. Im sure there is a conversions section somewhere.
could be a cool effect for a staff too.. double ended, expanding sides/pop-outs..
**(taking pics in a little bit)..
pic of the part(s) used.. you can see BOTH of the double ended male threaded connectors in use here..
the one with the threads left on was/is on purpose to try a certain 'locking approach'
if not using that route for locking..the threads would be turned down/off to mirror the other adapter/collar
you can see the collar/sleeve fix I had to make for the the lack of OG adapter part..and to be used with the new ID ones. (looks like a Super Mario bros. tunnel)..it slides inside the adapter (new version style)
spring and 'core' as well pictured.
fitment is great on all parts! (happy with it)
OG Double Male Threaded Adapter, that has been bored out..and the threads turned down: (reminds me of brass bastard a bit)..
and would look great for dressing a choke to a regular MHS part normally..not in conjunction with this sliding/expanding project
here it is one of the possible 'closed' states: (in this version since BOTH pieces have the external collars... the threads would be turned down.. to match the top collar..)
a better look at the 'core' (sliding system)
using the adapter..and leaving a lip on the core/tube..
I can screw it right into any MHS male part.. and effectively have a 'plunger' now.. the core tube will NOT come out. (not does it spin either surprisingly)
please excuse the super long-ness.. I have NOT committed to cutting the core/tube yet, until I am SURE on the levels of expansion and the locking portion of this project
(the longer the MHS part..the more travel, you can obviously get.... however that doesnt leave much for practicality in the visuals or the design.. since you dont really want a SUPER long, goose necked choke/core.. a nice 3 inches looks good visually ... but you also want the smallest footprint you can do when the saber is closed...unless its more for a quick effect or on a staff or something.... so that means shorter MHS parts.. and back to less travel then... however you can make both the top section..and the middle/core tube BOTH expand while holding the grip section) so you need to play with balance & direction a bit.
Locking approach #1:
forget the bottom 'collar'.. I have an internal 'ring' that supports the core/tube still.. but I leave the threads on the top collar..
collapse..and then spin the handle portion to lock into place?
LOTS of paths I can take here.. with locking (hard part).. and choosing the expansion path more than one section expanding? or just one?..etc
cold here, not to mention time is absent alot these days... so like the bearing chassis pommel lock mod...figured Id just share what I have.. maybe it will help someone else.. (not to mention this one I could use some ideas on)
AoF Pommel (mod)
Got some pommels made from Randy a few (years?) back now...
they were oversized (OD).. because most MHS pommels were stock OD..
it is very similar to the Jay-Gon pommel #10 that is in production now..
I like them because:
a.) using a shroud/sleeve/overlay isnt BIGGER than the pommel OD now..
b.) it helps 'lock' in overlays because they cant slip past/over the pommel..
You can see an original one on the right...and the mod'd one on the left.
(some turning down..and trimmed up t-track)
on a hilt/extension section: