DMStudios' Digital Playground
24Jan/130

The Jeruino (Arduino compatible clone circuit)

compare_2

Introducing the Jeruino! (not really.. but everyone else names their Arduino knock-off clone circuit.. figured I might as well be trendy too!) LOL =)

Everyone knows how much of a whore I am for the RFX platform...

I have also been playing with the Arduino for a while too... (any member here or JSSDC can easily jump in..with both feet and be up speed (at least my speed) in a day or so...so I dont wanna hear any pissin' & moanin' about things being too hard.. lazy I'll accept)

a HUGE problem for everyone who posts this junk is 'footprint' going from the non-practical BREADBOARD set-up that is great for YouTube vids.. but not so great for any practical project.. nor is stuffing a 'real/true' Arduino board into a project (they are more development/prototyping and have alot of bells and whistles you dont need in the end) very practical and wastes money.

you can get all the components for a barebones Arduino for around $7 bucks or so.... which is much better than $30+ each time to shove in a stunt or costume or other prop..

I saw Alec post his jedi training remote.. and pm'd him saying that is great project for an RFX or Arduino 'brain'.... since it doesnt need a CF or PC..etc.. this little brains fill a nice niche.

So I opened up photoshop and got to work on making [u]my[/u] first 'real' pcb schematic (IMHO).. since this was a real working board..and not just some traces to hold sensors or switches as I have etched out before..

(I etched another 'real' board...but it was based on TroyO's schematics for a multi-channel LED driver board.. which I've posted before...PWM chopper type)

this one I created myself from scratch.. and google/instructables... (basically ported my breadboard Arduino circuit to a PCB) with the intent being fore Alec's jedi training remote.. (anyways.. not sure if that currently being worked anymore) =(

but I produced my first functioning Jeruino board.. ;) (Arduino clone)

Its no PlecterLabs, professionally design PCB.. etched by a PCB house...etc.. this is DIY at home... (so if your looking for that.. Alt+F4 is for you! =) )

anyways.. on with the story/post.. =)

SO I made a design in Photoshop to illustrate my traces and vias/pads..etc
you print this out on GLOSSY PHOTOPAPER.. done with a LASER PRINTER (not ink jet)

**this happens to be DUAL sided (avoid at all costs if you can..true PITA for DIY)

you cut out your traces/design... lay it over your copper clad board (RadioShack..or anywhere)
and you IRON it.. heating up the toner so it adheres and transfers to the copper board.

let sit for a few minutes.. run it under water.. and rub/peel the paper away under only traces are left on your copper board: (looks like you printed on the board... sometimes traces by the edges do NOT transfer good.. so be careful.)

cut out other side.. and get ready to repeat process:

once you have your traces transferred to the board.. it is time you etch away the visible copper.
All copper is gone.. leaving only the traces you transferred to the board left.

the flip side: (**warning..UGLY.. you can see the lift of the paper and traces that are crummy on this side) (you can see the holes mis-aligned a bit.. but no worries..all good)

this side came out pretty damn good though:

from here.. I removed the toner on the board with some ACETONE..

Next we drill the holes (damn there was a lot)
Doesnt look too bad (from the top)..LOL

clearer view of the bottom side with some mis-aligned holes:

what stinks about the DIY approach with dual sided.. is THERE ARE NO THROUGH HOLES PLATED.. so its a real BITCH to solder through the holes to bridge continuity..

Anyways.. once you are at this point..
you can start to solder on your components:

and....viola`

and finished product..

threw in a Atmel chip from my Arduino.. (already had a sketch/program on it..so I knew it was working)..

powered it up.. BAM.. it worked! (STOKED!)..

however.. before I posted.. I needed to check the FTDI headers.. (these 4 pin headers are how you talk and upload new sketches/programs to the chip to be 'run')...

[b][size=150]FAIL![/size][/b]

it runs...works.. but only a pre-programmed sketch that was/is on the chip.. (BOOOO!)..

who wants to buy a REAL Arduino (besides people like me).. just to swap out the chip for your final project every time your done? (I guess many people do it this way though..as FTDI takes up a little space?)

be nice to just write directly to your final Jeruino.. ;)

so after some BS and a few swear words.. I fixed everything..(ala Ultra Sound approach) LMAO...

found a few continuity problems from top-side of board to bottom side of board..

and an FTDI problem...

the Ultra Sound fix was a missing trace to a certain pin (pin7...VCC..yikes)..

so I had to use a fix wire..like the old US boards.. hahaha.. (throw-back)
(it looks worse in the pic)

and of course.. because no good deed go un-punished and hard work is always laughed at in life..

I got punished by NOT doing my due diligence.. doing all this hard work for NOTHING!..

as I found a KIT.. that does exactly what I just created from scratch, myself.. that is MUCH more easier, and much more professional (however you dont get the satisfaction of failing over and over, swearing alot....and its missing any kind of Voltage regulator.. but making a quick PCB for that would be no problem!!!! haha)..

so I got a kit to compare mine..to 'his'... (fucker.. I really like his kits!!)

so without further ado..

some compare pics:

my DIY vs purchased (mine has a vRegulator though..so its a bit longer)

**disclaimer-

I make no implications that I know what Im doing..
that this is the BEST approach
that this is absolutely how things much be done.

I am simply sharing what "I've" done...

but for extra $10.. it can really kick up a stunt or costume..

you have a BRAIN with MANY I/O ports to hook stuff up to..

LED's... servos/motors.. accelerometers... and the list goes on and on..

all the same brain.. just change the code. =)

hope this helps someone finish that special prop/project.

feedback or questions are appreciated.

Thanks gang..

24Jan/130

S.C.A.B development…

flash_board

Over the 'years'.. (since I was first turned on to the RFX project/platform).. I fell in love with the idea of a generic platform for the user use as they saw fit.

motors, leds, rfid...whatever the project was.. a nice, simple, generic platform for users to 'tweak' and customize seems like a great idea to me.

with RFX basically defunct/dead... I turned toward the Arduino platform. Had a huge following, lots of examples.. and quite easy to get up to speed on basics..etc.. (even without an electronics background)

The problem with the Arduino platform (as is).. is that its purpose (to me) is for developing/prototyping your projects.. but not to be used in the end application.

why? due to size.. and price mainly for me.. (although other Arduino variants can come in smaller sizes.. the price is includes extra development stuff you may not use in your final projects...etc... and not to mention a minimal Arduino circuit can be made for under $7.00 bucks!)

And getting an Arduino to play audio isnt done easily (by default)..
****(although now I just tested a super easy PWM based audio output library.. doesnt use any DAC or AMP.. and the quality is pretty decent for what it is!)

SO I began to teach myself Eagle.. (not easy for me unfortunately..but after some time I got more comfortable with it)..

and laid out some stuff.. and finally felt confident enough to start making my own PCB's and having the shipped to me.. (instead of the old DIY home brew etch approach)

So here I am documenting my process.. (and failures) along the way.. ;)

a qcuik summary of the things I had to learn.do/involved..

*need to make a the schematic/circuit layout in Eagle
*hope its correct or have others look it over (check against design rules too)
*order the pcb's (sending the exported GERBER files form Eagle to your pcb fab house of choice)
*order a stencil (which is used to layover the pcb and smear solder paste over it to get it applied to the exposed pads through stencil)
*place parts on pcb (tweezers!!!!)
*re-flow pcb in oven

This was my first iteration.. using a different DAC than the schematic I was using as my guide:

Here was my FIRST generation of pcb's I got made:

Here is the pcb compared to other stuff.. an Arduino, a smaller minimal Arduino kit..and I think an US 2.5 board:

here I applied my solder paste.. and populated the board with its components..etc. and re-flowed in my wal-mart toaster oven!!

re-flowed:(done)

I had even tried to fix it by testing jumper wires to the default I/O pins..etc.. (no go)..

Well long story short.. after posting and asking....I just couldnt get it working with the DAC I had chosen..maybe someone else could have?? no clue.. (DOH.. should have just followed along..lesson learned)..which I guess is good.. as I had a few other mistakes as well.. =( SO I started over.

In the end, all I had was a tiny Arduino circuit..with on-board uSD socket.. nice.. but no audio output. :(

So lets go version 2!!

I got mew pcb's made... got a new stencil made..etc.. and started again.

Here is the process "I" did:

apply the solder paste, using stencil:

remove stencil.. examine paste placement on pads: doesnt need to be PERFECT as the heat from pads will pull solder towards it..etc:


Then populate board: (those TQFP chips are a PITA sometimes!!)

Stick it in the toaster for a bit.. (you can see the solder melt and get shiny)

and when you are done you get a finished board..

Here are some size shots and comparison shots against a full size Arduino & WaveShield (which is what my custom board is together..those two boards in one)



in the last pic you can see some pots wired inplace of some resistors.. I did this so I could dial in not only the volume.. but play with the filter/range, so things didnt sound so muddy/muted..

when done flash the board with whatever code you wrote to control/do whatever it is you need done.

thanks for looking.. was a fun project..

24Jan/130

Custom 7-piece smd led bra graphs (and assembly)

smd_barGraph-013

From the JSSDC run Austin put together.. the bar graph pcbs..

blue is bottom layer.. red is top layer...

Here is link to the Eagle files too:

http://dmstudios.net/misc/led_barGraph_pcb/led_barGraph.zip

you can take those.. and export GERBER files for the fab house..

I already checked the design against the iTeadStudios design rules..and everything passed.. (so should be good to go)..

that being said.. it doesnt save us from ourselves! look at..study it.. make sure its 100% right..

walk yourself through the assembly and the application of using it in a build..etc.. see if you come up with any troublesome area...etc
I think one that fits/works in the MHS activation boxes would be nice.. same hole alignment..etc..etc.. some standoffs.. done.

if you choose to use the resistor pads on the CF.. bridge the pads on the bottom of course

suggestion.. if you plan on either offer built ones.. or making several of these for yourself..

invest in a stencil!.. (at least for the top [led] side)... its easier than you think to do... (costs a bit of extra money though)..

but saves time and produces a better 'finish' for your components/solder than doing it all by hand..

I have used both pololu.com and ohararp.com (I think thats the right name?)..

I preferred the later.. as it comes on a piece of KAPTON vs MYLAR.. and produced a better stencil (and Ryan was great to talk too.. very helpful for us noobs)

thats the nice thing about getting pro boards made.. you can use both sides to run traces way easier than a DIY board..LOL

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my attempt at assembly:

here are some pics of the board I just did this morning..

(summary)

1.) print out the pads/footprint from Eagle to a piece of paper..use exacto knife to cut out pads (ie: make your solder paste mask w/paper)

2.) align your pcb with enough, equal height stuff around it so the mask doesnt 'bow'..and you have a bigger surface to 'smear' against.
(I just use extra/leftover pcbs and stack along the sides)

3.) take your paper mask, and lay/secure it over your target pcb

4.) smear some solder paste at the top of the 'mask'... and grab a credit card or something like a putty knife.. and smear the solder paste over the mask

5.) for this type of PCB/project it doesnt have to be 'perfectly' aligned on the pads... (for fine pitch components.. I would wipe it off and start over)
you can see the alignment isnt perfect.... but it doesnt matter here.. also the heat will pull the solder toward the pads and even it out..etc

6.) after you apply your solder paste, you can populate the pcb with your leds (align/straighten as you see fit)

7.) throw it in your toaster oven...(tick tock)

8.) all done:

I didnt do the resistors.. if I was going to.. I would have started with that side first.. then done the leds last.. (or just did the resistors by hand.. as you dont see that side) ;)

all-in-all.. it took about 11 minutes to complete..

24Jan/130

Arduino: WaveShiled build process

assemebled_top_small

Hey gang-

while I was working on my own custom Arduino based project.. I found myself without a real way to compare the audio output (volume/quality) against the Adafruit WaveShield which I based my project off of)

So I was about to order one.. when I found a guy at my local makerspace that actually had one of these kits. The catch was he had never put it together.

So the barter was on.. I can borrow and test it.. as long as I put it together for him.. (pfft.. no problem!)

Here is my documentation of building an Adafruit WaveShield..

the kit parts:

compare shots against my custom board, for size:

thanks for looking!

summary: nice and easy kit
does what it says in minimal time and effort
volume quality is 'not' that great.. (but they know about it.. and they provide a resistor hack for adjusting the volume)
the filter/range is a bit muffled too..

over-all its better than straight, un-filterd, un-amplified PWM audio! and its only around $20.00

PS.

special thanks to Pete P. @ the local Milwaukee Maker Space! (you guys rock!)

24Jan/130

DIY: Homebrew PCB etching

supplies

Not sure how many (if any) of you may ever need to do this...

but if you want to mount those sensors we got or accent leds..(or anything) to a little custom PCB for your projects..

you can make a PCB all by yourself with nothing more than a black-n-white laser printer, the copper pcb board, and some etchant solution

Etchant Solution:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2102868

I think they stopped making them..but some stores still have old inventory.. (I got my last 2 kits for $3+ each)

# 276-1576 is the KIT# (read the description, and you'll see reference to the kit)

comes with:
etchant solution
tray(s)
etchant/ink remover solution
copper PCB board (2 thicknesses)
drill bit
scotch brite pad
permanent ink marker

you really only need the etchant and the copper pcb board.

I made a little layout/schematic (nothing special)

in photoshop.. @ 300 DPI

** make sure you print on glossy PHOTOPAPER.. this works best in my tests..

print out your schematic..

cut out schematic

iron schematic to the copper pcb board... let it sit a bit.. make sure transfer is nice.

under cold water.. 'wash away' the photo paper on the PCB board.. it will leave behind the INK/TONER from the paper on the PCB..

(I didnt take a pic of this....sorry)

but it would be like you printed ON the PCB (more or less) after you wash away the photo paper with water.

fill tray up with etchant solution..

throw section of pcb board with print out ironed on it..into tray..

(etchant will eat away/remove ALL copper 'except' where the ink/toner was left at)

once all copper is gone..and only black ink/toner is left on board...

you can take high grit sand paper or the scotch brite pad..and clean off the toner that was left on the board.. revealing the copper (now traces) on the board..

It can be used to get some fairly decent lines and things are very crisp for what it is..

I made a 'pcb' board to hold my X & Y axis swing sensors....and my clash sensor.. and soldered solid core wires that fit into my bread board to test with the RFX project..

Ive also used this method to make a few LED driver boards to drive a LUXIII/P4 w/PWM support... as well as a 3 & 4 driver board for RGB or RGBA diode LEDS..

I made these printing on WAX paper though..and the transfer isnt as good after ironing as using glossy photo paper and washing it away under water after ironing.

and these are just HOME BODY, DIY needs..and they work a treat..

image how small things could be if they were professional designed and manufactured!! PHOOK!>.lol

hope this helps any of the DIY builders out there..:)

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For these tests...

I have used a very affordable HP LaserJet 1022n (n = networked)/

basic stock black-n-white laser printer.

as for photo paper.. I have success with several brands, sizes & type.. glossy or semi-gloss all types were..

all transfer CLEAN, SOLID lines..vs. using a wax paper or a mailing label backing or similar..

I was very impressed with the quality of transfer using photo paper vs. anything else.

re: etchant.. a few other things to note..

myself. (wrong or right).. I keep my solution in a plastic tub/container.. (with lid)..and just leave it.).. I re-use it.. sometimes adding more or etchant at times..

also adding air/bubbles to the solution helps speed up the process and works well...

my point/goal was to provide a method that doesnt require any special ordering of materials or supplies.. everything should be able to be purchased locally...for cheap!

24Jan/130

Joe Jedi Control Box Use: 2

side_2

Im always looking to re-use or hack existing parts.. MHS.. heatsinks..whatever..

I had originally played with these control boxes and mounting a PLI in them (dimensions are almost spot on)..

I never have any 'cover' on them..and they looked a bit 'steampunk/unfinished'.. (not the type of fit & finish "I" like)..

may a few.. and was done.. other day.. got back to working on one for a buddies MHS OBI I am making him.. (no clamp.. just this contol box)

I figured Id share for a few reasons..

1.) it actually came out fairly good.. I made a black one and a 'brass' one..

2.) anyone can make these..no special equipment needed

3.) makes use of old or existing 616 parts..

4.) total was really only a few bucks. (@ your local ACE hardware..some brass flat .99 ..and a 'brass channel' $2.49)

this may get a PLI mounted in it as well..

and the cover will get a slit/slot cut out in it for the leds to shine through..

alternatively.. you can put fill in the sides where I am mounting switches/buttons.. and keep the space under the cover blank/empty for switches..

"OR" see the GHETTO PCB 4 U thread..and make/etch your own PCB and fake resistors and diodes..etc.. and mount in it there..like on the OG graflex's

(and I also posted a pic of an OLD AoF pommel I had two of..that I modified.. and added in some 'rubber grip' pieces..

Front.. close cover:

Top cover open: (bottom has holes to run wires) (you can see both slider switch and mom. switch on each side)

Side:

Slider Switch side:

Mom. Switch side:

AoF Pommel mod:

Since I have a few of these.. I have some without the switch stuff cut out..

but I was thinking the slider switch will be for the PLI...
*always on (unless kill key is in of course)
*off
*on when saber on

Be cool to fit in battery in there! pop it out to charge it up..pop back in!..

anways.. this thing is a space saver fits on the outside of a 2" extension piece..

single (middle) point mounting, means no worries about using it at top under a bladeholder/heatsink ;)

feedback is always appreciated.

Thanks

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oops.. the pics..

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also...one more last pic... before final steps are done..

quick mock up of the PLI inserted..

not fully installed..(you can see the wires still)..

but you get an idea of how it'll work & fit.

you can also see the new 'cover' I am making for it.. to let the leds shine through..

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I think I might have to re-do the sides (again)..

the problem at hand is how to get the PLI to sit a bit LOWER in the box..

I have a few options..but none will really gain me MUCH more space in lowering it..

alternately..re-doing the sides and making them a bit taller would work.. but will it throw off the visual looks of it with it being taller and not 'as' flush?

anyways.. anyone/everyone can make these..

takes about $4.00..but you should be able to make 2 out o the materials..

At my local Ace Hardware store.. (just like everyone else).. we ave a little Brass/Aluminum/Copper section for hobby metals..robs, tubes...flat/sheet...etc..etc..

one of the pieces they have is RECTANGULAR tubing.. not very wide at all..but a few random sizes..

I grab one of the bigger pieces..and then the FLAT brass strip you see in the pics..

cut it long ways....and down the 'vertical' axis..not the horizontal.. (see pic)

you'll be left with two pieces like this:

_ _
| |
| |
| |
| |
- -

you dont need the bottom 'lip'.. so shave/and it off... so you're left with an upside down "L" shape:

_ _
| |
| |
| |
| |

thats basically it.. LOL

make another set just liek this.. but make them SHORTER (not as tall).. so just sand/shave down MORE wen taking off that bottom lip.

this is the basis of your 'shelf' system.. so you can slide the brass cover into place..

_ _ _ _
| - - -- |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |

you can then do the same..of course smaller width.. for the 'width' of the box..and to keep the 'sides' secure and not loose.

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ok.. to finsh it up more or less..

the PLI cover/cutout window..

my question to you guys is:

to secure the PLI...

should I:

a.) try and use some screws/bolts to lock the PLI down?

Id of course like to do this UNDER the cover.. but if not..might have to go THROUGH the cover.. ending the removable/sliding aspect of it.

b.) raise the sides a bit to compensate for the 'thickness' of the PLI?..then I can mount the PLIS down.. glue or secure the sides in.. and the cover can be removable?

sorry about the finger prints.. did a quick buff on the pieces to take a pic for YOOUZZ GUYZZ..

24Jan/130

Joe Jedi Control Box Use: 1

pli_top

I have been working on a few PLI housing/control boxes for some of my builds..

figured Id share the latest mock-up/model with everyone.

this isnt perfect..but its a mock-up.. I have a few that turned out nice.. black & silver also, with & without 'bands' style..

uses the PLI from the store.. and fits perfectly..

mounted a mini latching slide switch (DPDT) for the main power..

on this particular pictured...(since I am testing out a layout to be used with a Plecter Dimmer) sports a momentary tactile button on the other side to set the options of the board without having to be 'inside'. ;) (personal preference really)

but could be anything, or used for whatever AUX you like.. instead of a slide switch I have also mounted a few momentary push buttons in that area.. with some 'covers/caps'' (they look nice)..

what you dont see pictured is any covers.. still working on a few.. nothing Im super stoked on.. the LEDS are off-set and not centered.. so its hard for me to find a balance in the cover design with what I have found so far. :)

My idea is always to make things FUNCTIONAL and look clean/smooth in all my designs/builds.. this lets me house MANY things without much worry about where I need to drill holes in my MHS parts...:) its just one whole to get all wire through.. the hole on a pre-drilled hilt is plenty big for example.. :)

I have also made other version of this that DO NOT have a 'real' PLI.. but in fact just a strip of colored LEDS.. (looks great..but is just eye candy/accent LEDS).

I was hoping Jay-Gon-Jin would have come up with some thing like this on those brass runs he did.. they were sorta close.. Also surprised there isnt any 'parts' like this available in the store or other 'outlets'..